Dispatch from America: Damn this place is cold!

They said, "head South, you are going to run into snow". They also said, "Y'all are late to be riding bikes here". Finally they said, "Not me, I could not do what you are trying to". Well, "they" were right on the first two. I am riding up to 9,000+ feet outside Teton National Park, there is ice building up on my tires. What starts out as tiny ice crystals in minuets is a snow encrusted tire and out slides my rear wheel. Thanks to my worn multi-directional cleats I am able to detach one of my shoes to keep from laying the bike and myself on the frozen asphalt. Abby and I ran into snow outside Darby, MT last week. Since then we have have seen temps go from the high 80's to a low of 7 degrees.

We holed up in the kitchy town of W. Yellowstone, MT for 2 days. When the sun came out and melted the snow, we rode into Yellowstone. Geysers, bison, elk and RVs abound. The wind is against us, we take in Old Faithful and a walk around the thermal areas of the Park. The theme of "closed for the season" signs looks to be a trend. When we approach Grant Village in the South of the Park, nothing is open. The conditions are cold, windy and snow is on the forecast, we just want a cup of coffee. We ride into the employee housing area and ask Bill if there are any camp grounds open nearby. He tugs at his white beard that has been stained yellow from years of cigarette smoke and puts his hands back in his government issued green coveralls and says, "Nope, but I can rent you a room here for 20 bucks". Sold!

Montana was great, not to ride a bike through when we did, but definitely a state that I would love to spend more time in. Wyoming as well, its just to cold to be on a bike. Hiking in the cold is different, slower with potential wind breaks in the trees. Biking on the other hand in these conditions is arduous compounded by frozen toes, frozen water bottles, and headwinds that cut your mileage in half but force you to put out twice the effort.

So "they" were right about the weather, but I am not going to plan my life and trips around what other people suggest. I listen and apply some of what people have to say, but I am going to see for myself and ride my own ride. This is where great stories and adventure come from. Following a prescribed way of life is what diminishes our cultures sense of exploration and adventure. "They" are semi-correct, a cross country bike trip is not in most people's realm of possibility, but a 2 day ride through Yellowstone could be. Take the inspiration of the 2 day ride and let your mind run with other possibilities.

What I want to tell people is to stop eating the lumberjack sized portions at Applebees and re-watching re-runs; evaluate their priorities. I am confident in my critique because I have been on both sides of our society. I lived the debt ridden and consume at all costs lifestyle and I got fat, unfriendly, and depressed. I unplugged and semi-dropped out and while some haunts are still there, I don't deliver pizza anymore hoping that a semi-truck strikes my car so I do not have to pay for it.

Abby and I are outside Dubois, WY wishing that the headwind would reverse itself, the Indian summer would return, and we would not be skipping the Rocky Mountains of Colorado due to winter setting in. At the same time, we are enjoying the ride and challenges we face. Our plan is to ride to Rawlins, WY and into the Ft. Collins, CO area, then into Kansas to meet back up with our original route. The wonderful thing about bikes is that we can re-adjust and roll with what comes our way. Thanks to all of you who sponsored the foot long subs! Besides the scenery and Americana we take in, eating copious amounts of food is a perk of punishing yourself on trips like this. In closing, if you ride 60-100 miles a day then you can eat a mandarin pork ribblet basket from Applebees that contains 2 days worth of recommended calories, just make sure you earn it.

More from the road.